![]() ![]() During cold weather the intake heater will come back on after start-up. as soon as the light goes out the voltage will climb to battery voltage. When you turn on the key and the "intake heater" light or "wait to start"light comes on, the voltage gauge will read below 12V. They are a little bit larger but more durable and half the cost. We have been replacing them with the silver coloured "WHITE ROGERS" relay from Blue Bird. Most failures are usually the heater relay. I have never seen a fault code set for heater relay or grid not working. It's not cold enough now to make heater come on so I don't know if I can check anything now. Replaced the solenoid and took care of the problem. I haven't had a chance to diagnose this yet but another AA had the power terminal actually get hot enough to melt the plastic around the terminal on the heater solenoid and cause the "Warn Engine" and alarm to come on and stay on. I've seen them get hot and loose connection. Logged events often are the most helpfull.Ĭheck the connections at the relay too. Look in the events section of the diagnostic software, useually follows active codes, logged codes and then logged events. If there is a low current problem in the relay or the heater the Cat ECM should set a fault code. This will probably require an extra set of hands, but may get you on the right track as to where to go next. Also maybe check to see if there is voltage going to the grid when you turn the key to the on position. Maybe try to see if you can find a Ohms specification for the grid and check the Ohms on it. WOW.I was just going to post this exact same thing.same bus, year and all. The more the input readings, the better the output decisions are.I've got a '06 AA with C7 Cat engine and the "Wait to start" light comes on on gauge test but will not stay on when it should be pre heating.Īnyone know how to check to see if it's the heater grid or something else? One ECT sensor might not be as much reliable to operate the fan efficiently. This secondary ECT Sensor works together with the primary ECT Sensor to optimize the working of the car and give an accurate reading of the coolant to the car ECU before it is heated up, saving it from potential overheating problems.Īdding an ECT sensor is another way to get a more accurate reading. To keep the radiator of the engine working properly and to regulate the temperature of the engine constantly, locating these leakages is also very important. However, the one location where the secondary ECT Sensor is seldom placed in the radiator is the outlet of the radiator tank or pipe as it is the most common place for leakage of the engine coolant fluid. The location of this sensor is not very common and is found in different locations in different cars. The other Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is known as the secondary ECT sensor or the ECT sensor 2. This cylinder head closes the top opening of the cylinders and packs it into a casing forming a combustion chamber for the fuel and air to mix and react. In an internal combustion car’s engine, the cylinder head is placed on the top of the car’s cylinders above the cylinder block. This sensor is located on the coolant passage next to or in the thermostat housing of the cylinder block or cylinder head. The main Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is known as the primary ECT sensor or ECT sensor 1. One sensor is located near the thermostat valve housing, and the second one is located in the radiator outlet tank or pipe. The pair sensors can be installed in different places, depending on the make, model, and year. Most of the cars that are being used nowadays contain pairs of Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensors for the purpose of sending accurate and precise information to the car ECU. These sensors are directly connected to the car ECU for measuring the temperature of the engine coolant. This sensor consists of wires ranging from 1 to 4. But modern cars, have coolant temperature sensors placed next to the thermostat housing, which is directly connected to the car ECU. ![]()
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